Miguel Adrover Interview: Assembly designer Greg Armas interviews visionary designer Miguel Adrover regarding the politics of aesthetic and celebrity
Posted: Jul 26 2015
In the time when fashion existed/thrived without celebrity, several wildly free, determined and informative designers came into being. Most of the names we know, from Martin Margiela's iconic cryptic empire to Alexander McQueen's nightmarish detailed visions. Now many of these houses are operated by non eponymous designers and the massive popularity of fashion within the last decade has caused many to change, or die.
Miguel Adrover is maybe the most gifted among these designers in terms of output and intuition, perhaps to a fault even at times. For example his Taliban themed show days before the 9/11 attacks (who could have known?!?). Miguel's work at that time caused us to think maybe we did actually know, there was something in the air and he was able to pull it down like a poet and present us with some materilazed truths, albeit probably 10 years before we could even stomach them.
And so it is with 'curse' of the artist; a prophet that no body wants to really hear. The message is too pure, too present for us to conceive of without emotional fog. We resist our teachers and poets and learn, later, to acknowledge their visions.
Miguel has been an extremely influential designer for me and having the opportunity to interview him was an honor personally. we are all human, none of us more or less, but as Miguel would insist, it is our connections, memories and emotions that determine the true world. The following is abridged and lightly translated from a 3 hour interview via the internet. Mr Adrovers biography and details are available here
Is it possible to create without destroying?
Yes it is of course., but you need to recreate yourself to represent some sort of illusion or style or cult on society…Or you need express something new that is really new, that is connected to reality. That is the situation in the industry; so, yes it is possible if you can remove yourself from the mechanics and the money. It is not the right way now, where a designer must sell a certain amount of garments to be considered creative or respectable. There is another way. It’s not about how much can you sell but rather how much can you communicate? How much can you express? When you think you can manage between the two ideas of selling and creativity, you are playing the game of capitalism. If one is a free thinker, a free creator, then you have nothing to sell; you don’t have a customer at the end of the road. You just do because you feel its necessary to express yourself and to help people go forward.
The industry tends to portray things that are impossible to reach, even though hey have already been created. To me fashion lost a lot of power when it got married to Hollywood
Fear is the essence of impersonality. It is the opposite of creativity and freedom. If you have fear you are concerned more about yourself and not expression. I dropped out of school when I was 13 and for me at that time an artist was someone who had left society. but today being an artist means more like creating a system where you can charge a really high price for your work and then call yourself an artist because of society’s approval.
To explain true luxury I have to make the difference first between my personal definition and how it is explained nowadays. Today it (luxury) is something you can see, something you can show off, regardless if you enjoy it, maybe it can bring you up in status or bring a sense of security.. an object you can buy. But, for me, that is the totally the opposite of luxury itself. My idea of a luxury object is personal, private, individual and something specific to me that I don’t really share with anybody. It’s something that I wake up and watch and feel. It seems now, though, that luxury actually means jealousy.
For me, if I have the hair of somebody I have spent a lot of time with in my life or the hair of a horse I rode near me, it is a luxury. It’s supposed to make you feel good. Really anything that is not necessary can be poison
Make yourself an instrument so you can receive the incoming, we don’t really have enough time now to consider our personal self, when half the time when you look in the mirror you think about being somebody else famous anyway with all our technologies. It takes time to really think about yourself and be creative. You know its not like Whitney Houston where you can just make every song sound the same. I always tried to go above myself and my expectations.
Creativity is coming from one spot, necessity. The imagination required to make what you don’t have available. You can use this to connect people, not separate them
See the influence in our recent Assembly Spring Collection here.
special thank you to jennefer hoffman rossi